Makeup is supposed to enhance your appearance, but are your favorite cosmetic colors, concealers and creams actually creating more problems for your skin? Many are loaded up with ingredients that clog pores, irritate skin and lead to breakouts. It’s time to take a closer look at what you’re putting on your face every day.
The Doctor’s Advice On Common Comedogenic Culprits
Lanolin
Lanolin, sheep skin oil extracted from wool, contains fatty acids like those in our own skin oil. It’s among the most common cosmetic ingredients and for many it’s not a problem, but for those who are acne prone, lanolin can be a real aggravator. Partially synthetic lanolin derivatives like etoxylated lanolins and acetylated lanolins are even worse. These are capable of penetrating pores more deeply than natural lanolin and therefore create more chance of clogging and breakouts.
Isopropyl Myristate
A penetrating oil, isopropyl myristate, is one of the worst offenders and one of the most widely used. It gives cosmetics a smooth application and sheer feel, but the same properties that give it those benefits make it bad for your complexion. It clogs pores and enhances absorption of other chemicals, which can lead to skin irritation.
D & C Pigments
Some of the D & C (Drug & Cosmetic) red dyes used in cosmetic blushes spell trouble for pores, which is not surprising given that they are coal tar derivatives. Coal tar is known to cause acne, ask a chimney sweep. Look for products that contain the alternative carmine, a dye derived from insect wings and discovered by the Aztecs.
Synthetic Emollients
These include oleochemical- and petrochemical-derived ingredients. They’ve been known to clog pores, irritate skin and block hair follicles. Additionally, they’re often produced using high temperatures, which destroy the nutrients, antioxidants, and beneficial fatty acids in the vegetable oil-derived substances and may leave behind irritating petrochemical contaminants and residues. The best moisturizing ingredients are simple petrolatum or mineral oil.
Ingredients like sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sulfated oils, cottonseed oil, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, cetearyl alcohol stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, acetylated lanolin, squalene, dimethicone, isopropyl myristate, and octyl palmitate are all best avoided.
Acne Treatments
That’s right. In many cases, the very products you’re using to treat acne are actually exacerbating it. Cleansers often contain offenders like sodium laureth sulfate and laureth 4. And acne medications frequently include pore-cloggers like isopropyl myristate. The best acne medication is benzoyl peroxide in a pure water-based gel lotion like Vivant's BP 10% Gel Medication.
Bottom line: The simpler the ingredient list, the better it is for your skin.
It’s important to read the labels of the products you’re using and, wherever possible, look for products that use simple ingredients and fewer chemicals. A liquid foundation of pigments, water, glycerin and/or propylene glycol and loose mineral based powders are best.
Comedogenic (pore-clogging) ingredients To Avoid
The following list includes ingredients which score a 3 or above on the 0-5 comedogenicity scale. When these appear within the first seven ingredients listed on a product you’re considering, you may want to opt for something else. The further down a product ingredient list these items appear, the less the product formula contains.
Isopropyl isostearate...............................5
Isopropyl myristate..................................5
Myristyl Myristate.....................................5
Laureth-4.................................................5
Oleth-3.....................................................5
Coco Butter/oil.........................................4
Acetylated lanolin.....................................4
Acetylated lanolin alcohol........................4
Lauric Acid...............................................4
Isopropyl Palmitate..................................4
Isostearyl Isostearate...............................4
Myristyl Lactate........................................4
Stearyl Hptanoate....................................4
Cetearyl Alcohol + Ceteareth 20..............4
Mink Oil....................................................3
Soybean Oil.............................................3
Shark Liver Oil (Squalene)......................3
D & C Red #30........................................3
Stearic Acid TEA.....................................3
Myristic Acid............................................3
Buytl Stearate.........................................3
Decyl Oleate...........................................3
Isostearyl Neopentanoate.......................3
Glyceryl Stearate SE...............................3
Wheat Germ Glyceride............................3
Laureth-23...............................................3
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