The Magic Of Kojic Acid.

Kojic acid comes from mushrooms and has some pretty magical properties (for your skin, not your brain, Alice).

It’s a metabolite produced by a variety of fungi species including Penicillium, Acetobacter, Aspergillus and Shiitake, and can also be derived from plant sources as a by-product in the fermentation process of malting rice for sake.  

Until about twenty years ago, kojic acid was used primarily to stop fruits from oxidizing and browning and to maintain the pink and red colors in seafood. Then some smart Japanese scientists had a revelation. Could this magical mushroom derivative do for skin what it was doing for food preservation? They gave it a try.

Numerous studies have since confirmed that their intuition was right. Today, kojic acid has earned a place in the pantheon of cosmetic ingredients for its wide range of benefits.

Skin Lightener & Brightener

This is the big one and the reason you will often see kojic acid in skin bleaching products. Kojic acid inhibits the production of tyrosinase, the enzyme required for melanin synthesis. That means it naturally lightens skin and inhibits the formation of new pigment making it highly effective in combatting melasma, hyperpigmentation, age spots and discoloration.

Antioxidant Agent

Kojic acid is a powerful antioxidant that provides significant protective effects against UV damage. It scavenges and neutralizes the free radicals that cause the signs of aging and shields against oxidative stress.

Anti-Wrinkle Warrior

Kojic acid has an additional strength that takes the antioxidant factor to the next level. It’s an iron-chelating agent. Your skin contains a fair amount of iron, which, when exposed to UV radiation, get released to catalyze photo-damage and accelerate aging. Chelation is the process of binding those particles together, even in the face of UV exposure, to avoid that photo-damage. Iron chelation: kojic acid is on the job.

Anti-Bacterial Booster

Kojic acid’s natural anti-bacterial properties help remove impurities and blemishes, and combat acne to keep skin clear and radiant.  

An Alternative to Hydroquinone

For those who find who find hydroquinone too irritating or worry that it may trigger hyperpigmentation (especially in darker skin tones), kojic acid offers an effective alternative. Those who’ve experienced success with hydroquinone will find that, when combined with kojic acid, the synergistic effect can’t be topped.

Where to Find Kojic Acid:

Vivant’s Bleaching Cream and Bleaching Serum Forté combine kojic acid with hydroquinone and vitamin A to gently exfoliate, lighten, brighten and smooth skin’s texture and tone.

Vivant’s tiered corrector serums Derm-A-Gel®, Exfol A™ and Exfol A Forté™ pair kojic acid with lactic or glycolic acid and vitamin A to diminish the appearance of blemishes, deep wrinkles, resistant age spots and discoloration to promote clear, youthful skin.

Good News For The Over-Plucked Brow.

Eyebrows have suffered long and hard at the hands of over-zealous tweezers. Over-arched, over-thinned, over-defined and over-plucked, they’ve quietly borne the brunt of fashion’s cruel whims. Despite periods of relative safety for our long-suffering eye canopies (70s and 80s natural trends), we have spent years plucking those hairy face beasts into submission. (Who would blame them for packing it up and going to live with an Italian family in Sicily?)

Then along comes Cara Delvigne and suddenly, we all want our brows back. But after so much carnage, how will you ever get them to return?

First, stop plucking and give your follicles a rest. Plucking, threading, or waxing pulls the hair out by the root. Over time, this injures the hair follicle and can ultimately cause cell death. If that happens, goodbye, brows. Those babies are not coming back. Hopefully, yours are just deeply offended and will, with coaxing, get back to work.

It can take several months for brows to start producing hair again after repeated plucking. Age is a factor because hair grows more slowly as we get older. Couple that with the fact that your eyebrows are already the most sloth-like hairs growing on your body, plucked or not, and you can see nothing is happening fast.

Remove a few strays here and there if you must, but only if they are well outside the path you’re trying to nurture. And be careful about using a magnifying mirror. It will show you things not visible to the naked eye and send you down an OCD rabbit hole of hair eradication that could leave you looking like you suffered a propane grill flare by the time you’re done.

Best to put away the tweezers and give your brows some encouragement instead. And on that front, we have good news.

Give Your Brows A Nudge With Wink

The International Journal of Dermatology reports that caffeine, one of the main ingredients in Vivant’s Wink Eye Rejuvenation Cream, stimulates hair follicles and helps hair grow faster by blocking the effects of the follicle-damaging chemical DHT. According to an additional study byThe International Journal of Dermatology, caffeine not only stimulates growth, it acts quickly. “Hair follicles that were treated with caffeine showed a highly significant growth rate at 24 hours, and still showed further significant growth at eight days.” Bonus for the ladies: women’s hair follicles were found to be more responsive to caffeine’s growth-boosting properties than men’s.

And the news gets better. The vitamin A in Wink exfoliates and clears the way for caffeine to be more readily absorbed by the follicle, and grape seed oil, another of Wink’s key ingredients, has been shown to be effective in the treatment of hair loss due to its ability to improve blood flow.

If you’re in the know, you’re already using Wink for its exceptional lifting, firming and brightening around the entire eye area. Armed with this new information about caffeine’s follicle-stimulating effects, its time to migrate a little of the silky smooth, caffeine-boosted peptide cream northwards and give your brows a wake-up call. 

The Secret Complexion Killers Hiding In Your Cosmetics.

Makeup is supposed to enhance your appearance, but are your favorite cosmetic colors, concealers and creams actually creating more problems for your skin? Many are loaded up with ingredients that clog pores, irritate skin and lead to breakouts. It’s time to take a closer look at what you’re putting on your face every day.

The Doctor’s Advice On Common Comedogenic Culprits

Lanolin

Lanolin, sheep skin oil extracted from wool, contains fatty acids like those in our own skin oil. It’s among the most common cosmetic ingredients and for many it’s not a problem, but for those who are acne prone, lanolin can be a real aggravator. Partially synthetic lanolin derivatives like etoxylated lanolins and acetylated lanolins are even worse. These are capable of penetrating pores more deeply than natural lanolin and therefore create more chance of clogging and breakouts.

Isopropyl Myristate

A penetrating oil, isopropyl myristate, is one of the worst offenders and one of the most widely used. It gives cosmetics a smooth application and sheer feel, but the same properties that give it those benefits make it bad for your complexion. It clogs pores and enhances absorption of other chemicals, which can lead to skin irritation.

D & C Pigments

Some of the D & C (Drug & Cosmetic) red dyes used in cosmetic blushes spell trouble for pores, which is not surprising given that they are coal tar derivatives. Coal tar is known to cause acne, ask a chimney sweep. Look for products that contain the alternative carmine, a dye derived from insect wings and discovered by the Aztecs.

Synthetic Emollients

These include oleochemical- and petrochemical-derived ingredients. They’ve been known to clog pores, irritate skin and block hair follicles. Additionally, they’re often produced using high temperatures, which destroy the nutrients, antioxidants, and beneficial fatty acids in the vegetable oil-derived substances and may leave behind irritating petrochemical contaminants and residues. The best moisturizing ingredients are simple petrolatum or mineral oil.

Ingredients like sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sulfated oils, cottonseed oil, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, cetearyl alcohol stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, acetylated lanolin, squalene, dimethicone, isopropyl myristate, and octyl palmitate are all best avoided.

Acne Treatments

That’s right. In many cases, the very products you’re using to treat acne are actually exacerbating it. Cleansers often contain offenders like sodium laureth sulfate and laureth 4. And acne medications frequently include pore-cloggers like isopropyl myristate. The best acne medication is benzoyl peroxide in a pure water-based gel lotion like Vivant's BP 10% Gel Medication.

Bottom line: The simpler the ingredient list, the better it is for your skin.

It’s important to read the labels of the products you’re using and, wherever possible, look for products that use simple ingredients and fewer chemicals. A liquid foundation of pigments, water, glycerin and/or propylene glycol and loose mineral based powders are best.

Comedogenic (pore-clogging) ingredients To Avoid

The following list includes ingredients which score a 3 or above on the 0-5 comedogenicity scale. When these appear within the first seven ingredients listed on a product you’re considering, you may want to opt for something else. The further down a product ingredient list these items appear, the less the product formula contains.

Isopropyl isostearate...............................5

Isopropyl myristate..................................5

Myristyl Myristate.....................................5

Laureth-4.................................................5

Oleth-3.....................................................5

Coco Butter/oil.........................................4

Acetylated lanolin.....................................4

Acetylated lanolin alcohol........................4

Lauric Acid...............................................4

Isopropyl Palmitate..................................4

Isostearyl Isostearate...............................4

Myristyl Lactate........................................4

Stearyl Hptanoate....................................4

Cetearyl Alcohol + Ceteareth 20..............4

Mink Oil....................................................3

Soybean Oil.............................................3

Shark Liver Oil (Squalene)......................3

D & C Red #30........................................3

Stearic Acid TEA.....................................3

Myristic Acid............................................3

Buytl Stearate.........................................3

Decyl Oleate...........................................3

Isostearyl Neopentanoate.......................3

Glyceryl Stearate SE...............................3

Wheat Germ Glyceride............................3

Laureth-23...............................................3

Acne? Don’t Fear The SP Factor.

If acne is your skin issue, summer is your season of stress. A day in the sun means the prospect of coating your face in a gunky layer of greasy, pore-clogging SPF lotion. Maybe you’re even tempted to go without rather than risk a breakout. Spoiler alert, that doesn’t end well. The boiled prawn look is not attractive on anyone. And do we even need to mention wrinkles, age spots, and worse, skin cancer? No sunscreen? Not an option.

The good news is it is possible to protect your skin from sun damage without clogging pores and provoking a nasty response. Here are a few things you need to know.

What is non-comedogenic?

A non-comedogenic ingredient is one that won’t clog pores and produce or aggravate acne. It can be a tricky term however, as there is no FDA approved test for what is or isn’t comedogenic. In the 1970s Dr. Fulton pioneered testing for comedogenicity and established a 0-5 scale (0 being the lowest and 5 the highest). That scale remains the standard today. Formulation also has a lot to do with whether a product can be termed non-comedogenic. When checking ingredient lists, keep in mind that the higher the item appears on the list, the more of it the formula contains.

Oil-Free Often Isn’t

Many products claiming to be oil-free have simply exchanged natural oils for synthetic oils. This gives them the legal freedom to use the term oil-free. The synthetic oils can often be more aggravating to acne than natural oils. In fact, some natural oils like apricot kernel oil, sunflower oil and mineral oil will not clog pores and can be beneficial to skin. Better to concentrate on looking for non-comedogenic rather than oil-free.

Physical Beats Chemical

Chemical sunscreens, as you might imagine, contain chemicals that are absorbed into the skin where they work to neutralize the sun’s rays. They offer good protection against UVB rays, but are not as effective against UVA, the ones responsible for aging. And the chemicals can be irritating to skin and potentially harmful long term. Some people like chemical sunscreens because they can be lighter in feel. If you choose a chemical sunscreen look for one with octyl salicylate, which scores a zero on the comedogenic scale.

Physical sunscreens rely on titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, both non-comedogenic minerals, that sit on top of the skin to reflect UVA and UVB rays. Because these are not absorbed into the skin, they don’t cause irritation. In fact, zinc oxide is used in diaper rash ointment because it is the complete opposite of irritating and has anti-microbial properties. Zinc oxide is excellent at repelling both UVA and UVB rays. Titanium dioxide scores slightly lower on the UVA front. For this reason, titanium dioxide, you have been chopped. The winner of the physical battle and the sunscreen champ is zinc oxide.

Vitamin A & Salicylic Can Make Skin More Sun Sensitive

If you’re using a retinoid (vitamin A) or salicylic acid to treat your acne, your skin will likely be more sensitive to UV exposure. This doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy a little sun. It just means you should be mindful. Don’t get too much exposure, wear your sunscreen religiously and wear hat. Wide-brimmed preferred.

Support Your Sunscreen With Good Skin Care

No matter how non-comedogenic your sunscreen, it still has the potential to aggravate skin. It’s an added layer of sticky lotion that can trap oil and sweat, so you want to be sure to be keeping up a consistent and targeted skin care regimen morning and night.

Vivant’s BP 3% Exfoliating Cleanser flushes out impurities, refines pores and accelerates cell renewal for smoother, clearer, healthier skin. To keep is summer simple, follow with Daily Repair Pads. They’re alcohol-free and formulated with anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial ingredients to refine and revive. For an added retexturizing boost, Derm-A-Gel® Daily Vitamin A serum targets blemishes, sloughs off dead skin cells and encourages new collagen production. For more resistant acne or to spot treat, try BP 10% Gel Medication. And for daily moisturizing with sun protection, Day Treatment Lotion SPF 15 with zinc peptides and aloe vera is perfect for acne prone skin.

To review: Physical sunscreen with zinc oxide. Check. Healthy skin care routine day and night. Check. Wide brimmed hat. Check. Umbrella drink. Check. Enjoy your summer.

Black Beauty: The Best Defense Against Hyperpigmentation

When it comes to aging, black skin has some serious advantages thanks to increased melanin—fewer wrinkles, fine lines and age spots. But an overproduction of melanin can lead to hyperpigmentation, an issue that’s far more prevalent in darker skin tones and one where, frequently, the cure can be a cause.

Why is black skin more prone to hyperpigmentation?

The outer layer, stratum corneum, of black skin has more layers to it than Caucasian skin, about 20 layers to 16. The extra layers don’t add up to thicker skin, but rather more compact skin with greater cohesive properties. Imagine less space between the layers, like putting on 20 spandex workout shirts as opposed to 16 loose cotton layers. Again, great in terms of firmness and elasticity, not great when skin has an inflammatory response to injury or irritation that triggers melanin production. This is known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and can be the result of anything from a reaction to a cosmetic procedure (microdermabrasion, lasers, peels) to acne, or even a cut.

The cells delivering melanin are larger and more evenly distributed in black skin. They also have longer dendrites, the branching structure that reaches out from the cell looking for the electric stimulus that will send it into production. When the stimulus occurs (sun, acne, injury, etc.), pigment production takes off in a chain reaction and those tighter layers of skin help it reach farther and wider.

And because black skin seems to have greater trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), the skin’s ability to protect itself against irritation is reduced. That’s why things like harsh topical treatments or chemical peels can be especially troublesome for black skin.

What Can You Do About It?

Chemical peels, lasers, and microdermabrasions may seem to offer a quick fix, but are generally too irritating and risk exacerbating your problem. Topical treatments and prevention are the safest course, though they do require a little more patience.

Have a look around the web and you are going to see many recommendations for hydroquinone. Stop. Hydroquinone alone could be a mistake. Circle back to that bit about barrier function and sensitivity to topical irritants. While hydroquinone is widely considered an effective agent for lightening darks spots, it can be very irritating to dark skin and can trigger an inflammatory response (PIH) to make your problem worse. Hydroquinone in combination with Kojic Acid is a better solution. 

A great alternative is mandelic acid, which is a multi-functioning AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) derived from almonds. Its smaller molecular structure means it’s absorbed more slowly into the skin and doesn’t provoke a reaction the way other AHAs can. It has a micro-exfoliating effect, important for removing the dead skin cells and encouraging production of new healthier cells. It’s also a natural brightener so it will work to fade excess pigmentation. Mandelic acid has been shown to be highly effective and safe for black skin.

If you have acne, keep in mind that typical acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid and glycolic acids can be overly drying or irritating and are potential triggers for PIH.

Wear sunscreen to avoid stimulating melanin production and to protect your skin from UV damage. Yes, black skin tans and is susceptible to sun damage and skin cancer.

A consistent, healthy skin care regimen is essential to correct and prevent hyperpigmentation. Look for products with mandelic acid, green tea extract, vitamin C and E, lactic acid and niacinamide.

Our recommendations for keeping black skin beautiful:

Mandelic Acid 3-in1 Exfoliating Cleanser is a gentle, mildly exfoliating, brightening wash ideal for dark skin and a Dermascope Magazine Aestheticians’ Choice Award Winner.

9% Mandelic Acid 3-in-1 Toner is an advanced clarifying solution that removes impurities, refines pores, kills acne bacteria and relieves signs of hyperpigmentation.

8% Mandelic Acid Serum is an alcohol-free rejuvenating and brightening serum that targets acne, aging and discoloration without irritation.

Totaloe™ Calming and Hydrating Gel with aloe, niacinamide, algae and green tea extracts to help skin repair and replenish, while strengthen skin’s natural barrier function. 

Acne Client - Before and After Photo, 10.16.13

Here are before and after photos of a client who quickly cleared his acne with Vivant Skin Care products, including a BP 3% Exfoliating Cleanser, Daily Repair Pads, Derm-A-Renew, BP 10% Medicated Gel and Day Treatment Lotion with SPF 15. Time elapsed between photos is eight weeks...

Testimonial Tuesday: Normalizing Tonic Forte

It’s “Testimonial Tuesday”!

This week’s featured testimonial showcases one of our most powerful and effective toners, Normalizing Tonic Forte, and comes to us through a product review recently posted on our pro website:

“After starting off with the Normalizing Tonic and graduating to the Normalizing Tonic Forte, I saw a BIG improvement with my overall complexion! Last summer I cut back on this product and I started to breakout again. I will never stop using this product. Goodbye blackheads!”

-          Jo via www.VivantPro.com

http://vivantskincare.com/normalizing-tonic-forte

If you are a skin care professional, please call 800.9.VIVANT or email customercare@vivantskincare.com.